I had a quick look back at your earlier posts and you appear to have/had problems with the windows (shutters) not part opening off the key fob and also possibly the speedo/rev counter since you asked Coastline for the stepper motors. I have gathered your car is a 2.0 petrol, automatic, mark 1 C5, not sure of the year of manufacture (must be 2001 to 2004), mileage must be around 80k for the timing belt to need replacing, there has been a fire at some point (fuse box burnt out)
What condition was the car in when you got it, the list of problems Coastline has asked for should give us a clearer picture and let us help you best we can. You have not mentioned any problems with the auto box yet but they seem to not be reliable based on some posts on this forum.
it's a late 2002 car; has ~90k kms (in Sri Lanka we use km for distance!) but due to our conditions timing belt changes are actually recommended earlier than UK so actually it was overdue on the car. the fusebox had burned out due to an electrical fire (battery terminal not fixed properly -> spark -> fire). also the heat shield under the bonnet was replaced and the burnt wires repaired (seems to have been some guesswork with this as subsequently discovered)
the AL4 box had been replaced under warranty (at the agent) seems to be fine now.
when buying the car the agent identified some issues, and we discounted the cost of those against the purchase; these included:
- flushing and refilling LDS (some absolute idiot had topped it up with ATF... said idiot was an ex-mechanic of the agent who had gone down the alcohol road)
- replace 1 rear gas sphere, both rear suspension cylinders, both front leak back hoses
- replace both lower arm ball joints
- replace front brake pads
- replace timing belt + water pump
- power steering pump (it was leaking)
- flush/replace brake fluid (no history of having it done in the last 2 years)
- injector cleaning (using 3M additive)
- replace spark plugs
- replace 2 tyres (worn out)
- speedometer (it's just the stepper motor; currently using the tacho motor for the speedo)
subsequently appeared/discovered and fixed
- engine mounts (1806.52 link right and 1844.92 mounting bracket right)
- drive belt (came off due to leak from the PAS pump before it could be replaced)
- crank pulley (damper broken) and drive belt tensioner (wasn't tensioning anymore)
- A/C compressor clutch (the coil was rewired and baked in)
- front brake discs (there had been a crack that had been repaired!)
- front brake caliper (getting down the repair kit and pistons; binding was taking place and the hand brake had been disconnected as a workaround. probably this binding was what had caused the crack; also the old brake pads had unbalanced wear)
- wiring fault in headlights (it was the fogs that were getting turned on, not the dipped beam) / reverse lights (there was ~8V voltage even when the lights were supposed to be off)
- washer pump failure (not fully fixed, as detailed in other post). our bad for not checking this specifically.
- starter motor solenoid (contacts worn)
- fuel pump (was getting very iffy; tended to need to be tapped several times in the morning before it would start up). morning starting is still iffy. still confused as to whether I have the correct pump or not. Please see this.
- Replaced front suspension brackets (it was rather expensive that the agent did not discover this first time around) + rebound stop + cylinder boot
- Replaced Com2000 (the airbag fault message pre-existed; agent told us not to wory about it, and we didn't know it possibly meant an expensive com2000 replacement. subsequently the horn stopped working which is quite a dangerous situation!). we hand't checked the wiper washers.
also, less critically:
- the shutter function on the small button on the remote fixed itself, I don't know how.
- rear off-side passenger door got stuck; the thumping-while-unlocking trick worked.
discovered but no solution yet:
- the agents say the lexia reports a fault code on the MAP sensor (and the car has cut out once or twice, but not recently); they've tried cleaning the MAP, and even tested with a MAP off another car, but the fault keeps reappearing. they're take on it is that it's likely a wiring error. one of the options discussed was getting an used wiring harness from a breaker (in UK)... would this be feasible (would probably work out cheaper than individually diagnosing/fixing wires)? if so, what harness should I be looking at getting?
for the lights, washer, etc. it seems the main harness (6566.XW) but for the engine sensors I think it's the engine harness (part 6558.21 or .HZ or .NC depending on what I've got). for some reason breakers seem very reluctant to give out VINs of the cars they're breaking so it's going to be a challenge to find the right part :S
- the oil level/temp issue. could be the sensor or the wiring...
if this was in the UK they would cost more than the car is worth to repair and it would simply be scrapped unless there is access to low cost parts and labour. In the UK there are lots of C5s for sale at low prices and with labour costs of around £50 to 80 an hour your car may not be viable. Maybe I am missing something, but are cars in Sri Lanka difficult or expensive to get ? It is a pity you are having these problems since the C5 is a good car.
Cars in Sri Lanka are very expensive due to the tax structure; excise duties were reduced earlier this year and some other taxes/depreciation mechanisms will reduce from next year; but still we're looking at ~200% tax on CIF prices on a petrol car with a 2.0 liter engine and much more for diesels.
just to give an indication, a 406 D9 executive with about 100k kms on the meter would cost about 10,000 pounds. and even that's because european cars have a lower 2nd hand value. for a Corolla 110 (probably 3-4 years older, smaller engine, much less features, more mileage) the price would be similar.
labour is not too bad, e.g. even at the agents it cost 16 pounds to replace brake discs; 15 pounds to replace com2000. at other garages it would be cheaper so they are an option for things not connected to the hydractive suspension.
there's about 40% tax on spare parts; so that's why it's usually cheaper to get stuff from UK; but there are smuggled parts as well (for only slightly less than those who import clean) and occassionally the price difference is so marginal that it's better to get it locally.
The oil level sensor also measures the temperature and should have 3 wires to it. The oil temperature on our car, 2004 vtr 2.2 hdi bears no resemblance or movement relative to the coolant temperature but then it has never gone to high temperature.