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Citron Relay 2008 3.0 F1C Charging Issue

Alternator battery

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2 replies to this topic

#1 pikesrelaybus

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Posted 26 August 2019 - 11:20 AM

Hi Folks,

Weird one this, so My charging level is about 13v which I think is low. I have 3 more cars, all are >14v @ tickover. So, before attempting to remove the alternator I did some tests. The alternator has it's main output and one water proof connector, just the one wire (Yellow). I have removed and cleaned the +out lug and cleaned (as best I can) it's chassis bolts but the voltage remains roughly 13v. This means after a few days there's not much in the battery to start baring in mind it's got to crank over fast enough for the EMU to fire up the fuel pump. If I charge the battery she starts fine within 0.5sec. My battery/charge tester (Topdan 101) states my alternator output is LOW so something not quite right. Some time back, although it's stopped I used to hear a relay (glove box) clinking in/out as the rev's increased, I don't hear that these days, also when you revved slightly the clicking, I'd also see the headlights increase in luminosity. I have no idea how the alternator is removed, the gap between heat shield and drive shaft looks smaller than the alternator. On the battery end there's 2 large red wires, one I guess goes to the starter, the other alternator. One has a unrated fuse, the other had 150A fuse. There are some smaller fuses with lower gauge wires going to them but I doubt (might be wrong) they have anything to do with the alternator. Does the yellow (sense?) wire go through a relay, if I were to connect the alternator sense wire direct to the battery + and see the voltage rise above 14v, ie normal, is that bad news? I'm guessing the relay I hear cuts battery to alternator sense, that yellow wire, so the battery doesn't drain through the field winding's. As a side note, I've checked the quiescent current with everything off and it's about 0.2A, if I use the interior light that increases to about 1A. The tester and my scope fail to see any excessive ripple..


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#2 pikesrelaybus

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Posted 26 August 2019 - 03:10 PM

Ha.. can put this one to bed but interesting situation. So, turns out the technician who changed my battery (OEM lasted 10 years), stressed the earth terminal and I found a good 1v between battery neg and chassis. Removed and cleaned that small strap and now I have 0.1V, guess what?? 14.2v charge. So, I'm glad I didn't have the wrestle off the alternator. Still not sure how or what goes down that yellow wire, I back probed it, there's no voltage, or at least enough to illuminate a test lamp probe. Maybe it's current driven?? Hey, who cares, bus charging again. As a result of this, that nice new battery has lost many of it's lives. You see, it's less than a year old and my Topdan ArtiBattery 101 battery tester shows it's weak and needs replacing but hey, who believes those things, right?, actually it's spot on and very useful tool. So I decided to do a full charge then subject it to a 5A constant load and wait 20 Hrs, 20Hrs * 5A = 100Ahr.. Just made it past 10Hrs, like 50%, so it's toast...


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#3 paul.h

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Posted 01 September 2019 - 07:32 PM

Good to see you have sorted this. If the battery is less than a year old then it should be covered by a guarantee, most have about 3 years.






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