Weird one this, so My charging level is about 13v which I think is low. I have 3 more cars, all are >14v @ tickover. So, before attempting to remove the alternator I did some tests. The alternator has it's main output and one water proof connector, just the one wire (Yellow). I have removed and cleaned the +out lug and cleaned (as best I can) it's chassis bolts but the voltage remains roughly 13v. This means after a few days there's not much in the battery to start baring in mind it's got to crank over fast enough for the EMU to fire up the fuel pump. If I charge the battery she starts fine within 0.5sec. My battery/charge tester (Topdan 101) states my alternator output is LOW so something not quite right. Some time back, although it's stopped I used to hear a relay (glove box) clinking in/out as the rev's increased, I don't hear that these days, also when you revved slightly the clicking, I'd also see the headlights increase in luminosity. I have no idea how the alternator is removed, the gap between heat shield and drive shaft looks smaller than the alternator. On the battery end there's 2 large red wires, one I guess goes to the starter, the other alternator. One has a unrated fuse, the other had 150A fuse. There are some smaller fuses with lower gauge wires going to them but I doubt (might be wrong) they have anything to do with the alternator. Does the yellow (sense?) wire go through a relay, if I were to connect the alternator sense wire direct to the battery + and see the voltage rise above 14v, ie normal, is that bad news? I'm guessing the relay I hear cuts battery to alternator sense, that yellow wire, so the battery doesn't drain through the field winding's. As a side note, I've checked the quiescent current with everything off and it's about 0.2A, if I use the interior light that increases to about 1A. The tester and my scope fail to see any excessive ripple..