You might be able to put some white paint/tippex across the face of the pulley and with the engine running see if the line separates but a strobe light might be needed to see it or if it is bad when the pulley stops the lines will be separated. The rubber might also look perished/split so a mirror and torch will be useful. I do not know what can happen if the pulley is left for some time if it is perished.
Looks as if the pulley is common to other Citroens such as the Berlingo 2.0 hdi and a quick ebay search comes up with this for £38.88 https://www.ebay.co....lwAAOSwv89ZejRi
The RPO number change equates to 2nd June 2002 https://bartebben.co...rga-number.html
The pulley bolt will be tight and the torque I think might be 70 Nm followed by 82° but I am not sure since I have also found in the service box and also the RTA manual 40 Nm then an angular tightening of 51° using loctite on it. To undo it the flywheel will need locking plus I have read the bolt could have adhesive on it, so when undoing if it gets tighter do it up a bit more and then undo a bit, repeating this until undone, otherwise trying harder and harder might snap the bolt. The following is from the Citroen service box:
This bulletin describes the procedure that is additional to the methods for removing-refitting the timing belts on DW engines.
- Reversible torque spanner
- Hot air gun with adaptors
2. Presentation : The crankshaft pulley fixing bolt
"a" : Zone pre-coated with "thread-lock" type adhesive.
The crankshaft pulley bolt (1) has on its thread an adhesive "a" which activates on tightening. This adhesive makes the assembly of the crankshaft belt drive pulleys safe.
On slackening, particles of adhesive could possibly accumulate in significant quantities in the threads, thus rendering the operation particularly difficult and also possibly leading to the bolt breaking inside the crankshaft.
It is important to keep to the slackening procedure so that the operation will succeed.
CAUTION : Use of an impact wrench is prohibited : Risk of the bolt breaking inside the crankshaft.
CAUTION : Keep to the method "Removing - refitting : Associated timing belt".
3.1. Slackening at the correct torque
CAUTION : The flywheel immobilisation tool must be in place.
Slacken the bolt (1) ; Using a wrench (Do not exceed 1 turn).
CAUTION : During the slackening, make sure that the resisting torque does not exceed 200 Nm ; By using a reversible torque spanner.
Slackening the bolt (1) :
- Unscrew the bolt (1) ; Monitor the resisting torque
- If the effort increases, redo up and then renew the slackening (More than once if necessary)
- Alternately repeat the above operations until the bolt is completely slackened
N.B. : As the slackening effort increases, it is important to retighten fully so as to spread the adhesive which has accumulated in the threads.
CAUTION : Stop the operation if the slackening effort is too great ((greater than 200 Nm). Go to the next section.
3.2. Slackening with heating of the bolt
CAUTION : The heat of the gun can damage the rubber sealing on the ancillary drive pulley. Do not exceed 4 minutes of heating.
Heat the head of the bolt (1) for 4 minutes ; Using a hot air gun fitted with a small calibre adaptor.
CAUTION : Monitor the slackening torque, using the torque spanner, do not exceed 20 m.daN.
Undo the bolt (1) immediately.
Repeat the operation for 1 minute if the slackening effort still remains too great.
CAUTION : Check the state of the rubber sealing on the ancillary drive pulley. Check the state of the target of the engine speed sensor. Replace parts that are damaged.
Always replace the bolt (1) if the slackening torque reached 200 Nm.