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C5 Tourer 2011 Heater Fan Not Working


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5 replies to this topic

#1 taximan61

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Posted 24 January 2017 - 06:59 PM

I am posting this in case anyone else has problems and would like to share my experience.

I had to park my car up for 6 to 8 weeks as I was having a replacement hip fitted, December and part of January so cold weather.

First thing that I did wrong was to leave the battery connected, handbook says disconnect if not used for more than 4 weeks.

When I went to start the car the battery was flat, 8 hours on a trickle charger and the car started first time. When driving it I noticed that the heater fan was not working, very cold in the car and unable to keep the windows clear.

Visited my usual garage where all of the basics were checked, condition of battery, fuses, put it on diagnostic which showed very little. They suggested going to an auto-electrician as modern electrical systems are very complex and not to be played with, fair enough.

Booked in at auto electricians, in the meantime I rang Citroen and priced the parts, resistor £162 and fan motor £252. Then followed all of the comments from " those in the trade "

Nightmare of a job, dash to be taken out, airbags removed, one even said that the dash fixing bolts might be fitted from the outside and the windscreen would have to come out !!!!!!!!!!!!!

I was starting to panic as I love this car and really did not want to change it.

Never mind, the auto electrician deduced that it was the resistor and did a temporary fix, advising me that it would fail again so a new one would be needed, great service, got me back on the road. He showed me a picture of the resistor, got a genuine Hella OEM one from Ebay for £45. Happy days.

Now back to the motor, again I consulted Springfield Citroen in Gateshead ( in case it was the motor ) who quoted £421.74 to supply and fit a new motor, hang on, if the part is £252 that's not a lot of main dealer labour. About 2.5 hours they said, worst bit is getting the glovebox out, then it's pretty straightforward, a bit fiddly but not too bad. So no need to remove airbags or windscreen then ? No we've done a few, it,s not a nightmare.

Lesson learned, listen to those who know and have done the work before, sometimes the dealer is not only the best option but in this case very reasonable.

After all my C5 ( used as a taxi ) has only done 158k, lots of life left yet.

Hope this is useful.


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#2 paul.h

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Posted 25 January 2017 - 12:37 AM

Thankyou for the post. If I ever need work doing on our cars that I am unable to do I use a dealer, they should know what they are doing and have already done most jobs before, so should be able to do them quicker and use the right tools/procedures.

 

Have you done most of the 158k miles on your car, if so what other things have you had to do on it ?



#3 taximan61

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Posted 03 February 2017 - 11:48 PM

Got the car October 2015 when it was 4 years old and had 115k on. One owner and with a full dealer history, paid £4500 for it. Had a recurring problem with front discs warping, 2 sets only lasted a couple of months. Garage eventually sorted it, inside the caliper pin rubber guides there are plastic spacer rings, these go brittle with the heat and jam the caliper, used to be a problem on the old AX models I'm told. These were removed and all is well.

Up to now had regular servicing, pads/discs all round, tyres ( 19inch Arcadia alloys, hate them, give a hard ride )and just this week fitted a new battery, the original one was still on the car. Believe it or not the best battery deal was Halfords ( with trade card ) an 096, 75 amp hour for £73. Love the car but in the future I will have an automatic. Town Centre garage ( Sunderland ) have 2 beautiful C5 tourers in but way too expensive for me. EML on at the moment, it's the EGR valve but car still running perfectly.


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#4 paul.h

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Posted 04 February 2017 - 12:01 AM

I have copied your comment on the discs warping to the C5 common problems topic since it may not be an obvious cause.



#5 kingb

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 11:55 AM

Hi Guys. I've got a similar problem, and after much searching of other forums, it is either the resistor or the motor.

I went on holiday recently and left the car at home. apparently to say that the weather was a little inclement is an understatement. Anyway, in one post I came, across the guy had a similar problem after being on holiday. It turns out that damp weather can often have an effect on the bearings in the motor and can cause the motor to stick.

 

Since the blower motor control unit acts like a "soft start" on the motor, if the motor is "stalled" or sticking, then there will not be enough energy available to bump start the motor and it will overheat (hence the slight burning smell before I turned it off!). So, I am hoping that a little WD40 or other light oil on the blower motor bearings and a little run on the bench at full power will resolve my little issue.

 

Of the other forums, I guess that I now just need to locate the blower motor and this post has offered me some insight, now I just need to figure out how to get the glove box out, which apparently is a right pain.

Does anybody have any idea on how to remove it "easily" please?

Note to self, remember to close all air vents if leaving the car for a couple of weeks in the autumn/winter period.

 

Thanks in advance.


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#6 paul.h

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Posted 18 December 2018 - 05:10 PM

If just replacing the resistor it seems just the front passenger footwell covers at the right side/back need removing to give access to the resistor. Then unplug its connector, twist it and it should then pull out.

 

To remove the glove box start by switching off the ignition, open the bonnet, wait about 10 minutes for the electrics to shut down and then disconnect the battery (needed since the passenger air bag switch is disconnected later).

The glove box lid is removed by unclipping the dash left side trim, the trim under the glove box at the top of the footwell - quarter turn 2 fasteners and remove the lamp and unclip the side of the trim and then remove it, open the glove box lid and detach the stem of the ram moving it towards the front of the car, unclip the lid shafts and move them in so the lid can be removed.

Inside the glovebox remove the lamp, remove all the bolts, unclip it at the sides and then pull it backwards, at the left side turn the ram a quarter turn and detach it, disconnect the air bag deactivation switch connector, on top of the glovebox disconnect a connector and a harness, the glove box can now be removed.

 

Once you have got to the blower, to remove it a tongue at its top needs pushing in and the blower turned clockwise to release it.

 

When you come to reconnect the battery do not be too quick. Connect it up, wait a few minutes, turn the ignition so the dash lights up, wait a minute or so and then start the engine. This is to give the bsi time to start up. The clock will need resetting and take the windows down and up to reset the anti pinch.