aspire_helen Posted October 30, 2016 Share Posted October 30, 2016 I understand rear suspension cylinders usually weep LPS fluid and "stain" the boot and surrounding components. Indeed, a forum reply in 2009 stated that the ram is designed to slightly leak fluid into the boot as a means of lubrication. . However, the stains on mine seem rather excessive now and may fail the next MOT. I have cleaned and degreased the area thoroughly and now await to see exactly from where the fluid is leaking. The boots are intact as are the two flexible pipes into the boots (fluid return and vent pipes). The clamp on the wide end of the boot appears secure. However, I note there is no clamp on the narrow end of the boot. I also wonder what part the cylinder seals have to play. The parts diag illustrates 3 rings seals: 5272-18 Cylinder O-Ring, -29 Sliding Seal, and -31 Weather seal. I am unclear as to where these 3 seals sit in the cylinder - are they clamped in place by the 5272-H3 Thrust Bush ? Is it likely they will need to be replaced. Regarding replacements, I note the boots are available on line for under £10 and the clamp is a standard double-wire type. I have not yet tried to remove the cylinder pins, but I understand they can be corroded in.Grateful for any advice, ta. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul.h Posted October 31, 2016 Share Posted October 31, 2016 I put this on the common problems topic after finding a rear strut slightly dripping LDS fluid, thinking it was the gaiter but in the end this did not stop it and a new strut was put on. The R pin in my case was not rusted in since the leaking fluid must have freed it. It is possible to replace the seals but again this could be more wasted money if a new strut is really needed. The prices below are Citroen dealer ones a few years ago so not pattern parts. 7. Rear suspension strut gaiter leaks oil.It may just need a new gaiter - £7, fastening clip £10, LDS fluid £16, or a new strut. Gaiter replacement is a DIY job but a dealer would need to fit a new strut to guarantee the repair, probably about £230. The rear may also sink a little bit overnight indicating a new strut is needed. If you do an advanced search on 'rear strut' it comes back with lots of posts and among them the following topic is worth a look http://www.citroen-owners-club.co.uk/citroen/topic/23242-replacing-rear-ram-gaitor/?hl=%2Brear+%2Bstrut&do=findComment&comment=86654 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aspire_helen Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 Thanks Paul.I had read the linked post. It seems to me that if the rubber boot itself is intact, and is vented by one of its two side pipes, it should be possible to seal the boot against minor weeping leaks. I have done the same very successfully with a front strut for many years using oil-resistant silicon sealant. This is on the basis that any leak is very minor and does not affect performance, nor is a precursor to a more serious failure. I will post what I find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aspire_helen Posted October 31, 2016 Author Share Posted October 31, 2016 I found this post on the French Car Forum here. On that C5 the photo shows that the boot had visibly split open, but was still only an MOT "advisory"!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul.h Posted November 1, 2016 Share Posted November 1, 2016 Before replacing the strut I did try using a tie wrap around the bottom end of the gaiter to stop the oil weaping out but this did not work. I also checked the lower joint on which the boot fastens to see if it was damaged but could not see anything obvious. The leak was not that bad and did not fill the vent pipe that goes in to the rear axle. When you replace the gaiter you put 25 mls of LDS into the gaiter so at first I thought the weap was this oil coming out but then since it carried on it had to be more that this. My car did pass the MOT with the weap but I had it replaced at the next one before it took the test so lived with it for over a year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aspire_helen Posted November 1, 2016 Author Share Posted November 1, 2016 Thanks again Paul. I investigated the cost and availability of parts with my local Citroen dealer in Lincoln. They said the boots come in packs of two and would not split them, so I would have to buy two at a total cost of £19.64 inc vat. I have come across this in the past, some dealers split multi-packs some do not. As they are available elsewhere on the internet as single items I will not be buying one (or even two) from them. The total cost of the 3 sealing rings is approx £12.50. The cylinder complete is £130.12 inc vat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
paul.h Posted November 2, 2016 Share Posted November 2, 2016 Whether they will split the pack may depend on if the part is one they are likely to sell easily or be left with it on the shelf. I have used the Pentagon Lincoln dealer a few times and find they are really helpful, do a good job on repairs (used on our C3 a couple of times) but the parts prices seem to be full price and sometimes the quoted repair costs seem high if it is something I could do. Our previous Warrington dealer would often give a discount since we bought a few cars from them but this depended on who served you. Rigbys Chorley Citroen do on-line parts through ebay at a discount so something you could look if the postage is not excessive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
coastline taxis Posted November 3, 2016 Share Posted November 3, 2016 where your sphere joins the hydraulic ram. look for signs of corrosion as this is where the leak comes from. we have been 50/50 sucsessfull in using quick steel to stop these leaks. otherwise its a new ram Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aspire_helen Posted November 9, 2016 Author Share Posted November 9, 2016 One of the spheres joints is well corroded around the joint but the joint is dry. I cleaned up the oil stain, secured a precautionary hoseclip to the narrow end of the boot and it passed the MOT. 100miles later and no sign of a leak. I will get around to wrapping the possible leak sources with cloth and lockwire to try and determine the leak. There appears no need to remove the boot yet.Regarding the MOT - 15years,162K miles and no advisories, with original exhaust, suspension and steering rubbers/boots etc. Cant be bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ESL57 Posted November 9, 2016 Share Posted November 9, 2016 Good cars! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aspire_helen Posted July 14, 2018 Author Share Posted July 14, 2018 Just an update. Whilst replacing the suspension arm I investigated the oil leak at the rear end of boot (wide end). The oil is not seeping from the boot, nor from under the boot clamp (double-wire screw type). I levered off one side of the wire clamp which resulted in a rush of air and gurgling ie as air was sucked in through the fluid inside. Clearly the boot seal was air tight so could not be the source of the leak. It is now apparent the leak is from the vicinity of the "thrust bush" which is adjacent to the rear end of the boot. Hence, it may be that the seals are worn (cylinder o-ring, sliding seal and weatherstrip on the parts diag). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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